PGM newly updated Dress Form 2018

The paper-fiber material very strong hold pins, much help draping design. The unique updated Double Function of the form with 2 short legs, excellent for body suit and lingerie sytem design, and also, updated the cast iron base (easy break) to 100% aluminum strong base with life time warrantgy.

PGM Industry Grade Full Line Dress Forms System

Begin by draw a 'V' shape to form the neck of the dress. Then, extend one of the lines past the bottom of the 'V.' At the top of the 'V,' draw two short, nearly straight lines extending outward. From each of these, draw a short, curved line, downward. Draping is very important skill for fashion designers. It is the process of positioning and pinning fabric on a dress form to develop the structure of a garment design. After draping, the fabric is removed from the dress form and traced on paper to create the pattern for the garment. Draping can be approached in 2 ways mainly 1. And if need to customize a dress form so that it can have your exact measurements, we recommend the Fabulous Fitting System Dress Form pads which cost around $70. A garment can be draped using a design sketch as a basis, or a fashion designer can play with the way fabric falls to create new designs at the start of the apparel design process.

PGM full line Dress Forms system provide you a wide selection of sizes for both half body dress form and full body dress form to meet the need of worldwide fashion industry and fashion education.

PGM Dress Forms include Missy Dress Form, Junior Dress Forms, Large Women Dress Form, Plus size Dress Forms, Mature Men Dress Form, Young Men Dress Forms, Children Dress Form, Toddler Dress Form, Missy Pants Form, Men Pants Form, Girls Dress Form, Boy Dress Form, Missy Full Body Form, Junior Full Body Form, Men Full Body Form, Young Men Full Body Form, half scale Dress Forms, miniature dress form, as well as Petite Dress Form, Bridal Dress Form .

PGM Dress Form is a three-dimensional model used for pattern making design and dress style design. When making a piece of garment, dressmakers use Dress Formsto work with garment pieces to construct clothes fitted for specific size. Dress Form is the requirement for every sewer, so they can fit, drape and make adjustments and alterations tailored for their specific need. Education institutions use Dress Forms to teach fashion students the fundamental of pattern making and draping.

PGM Dress Forms are natural body shape designed with realistic looking buttock. It comes with standard collapsible shoulder, and bump out seams at both sides of dress form to enable you to feel them when draping with fabric.
PGM height adjustable stand on dress form allows dresses, skirts and pants to hang down at your own preferable height, so you can work with these dress forms with ease. For display purposes, the stand is also adjustable by height which allows you to display any length of garment that is most appealing to you!
PGM also custom made any special sizes or any extra large sizes Dress Forms upon your request!

How to measure PGM Dress Form

PGM full line Dress Forms are all USA standard sized, natural body shaped with realistic buttock and collopsible shoulders, excellent for professional fashion designer, fashion education, fashion industry, fashion students.....
Below are some measuring key point reference to help you on how to measure PGM Dress Form:

1. Neck Base
To find the base of the neck, have the person tilt his or her head forward. You'll see a knobby bone in back ,
round the measure tape at this point to make full circle.
2. Neck Middle
At 1' above Neck Base, measure around.
3. Shoulder
From side neck point (where the neck meets shoulder) to shoulder point (the upper arm bone).
4. X-Shoulder
At backside of body, from one shoulder point to another shoulder point.
5. X-Back
4' down from Back Neck Point, measuring from edge to edge (reference image).
6. F-Chest
1' down from Front Neck Point, measuring from edge to edge (reference image).
7. Bust Around Neck:
Put the measuring tape at one bust point, around back neck to another bust point (apex).
8. Bust
Measuring full circle around bust points (apex) and back point (see image). Please note: back point location
will be different depending on the body size.
9. Upper Bust
About 3' - 4' above Bust Point, measuring circle around back point ( see image). Please note: 3' -4', or
more will be different depending on the body size.
10. Apex to Apex
Measuring from bust point to bust point.
11. Dart
At waist line, measuring from central line to princess line.
12. Waist
Measuring full circle around waist points.
13. Abdome-4':
4' down from waist point, measuring full circle. Please note: 4' or... will be different depending on the body
size.
14. Hip
8' down from waist points, measuring full circle. Please note: 8' or..... will be different depending on the
body size.
15. Total Crotch
From front waist point , go under to back waist point.
16. Max Thigh
1' down from crotch, measuring around.
17. Middle Thigh
Measuring around from the middle of Max Thigh and Knee.
18. Knee
Measuring around knee.
19. Calf
Measuring around calf.
20. Ankle
Measuring around ankle.
21. Inseam
Running vertically down the inside of the leg, measuring from crotch to the ankle.
22. Outseam
Measuring vertically down from the outside of the leg, from waist line to ankle.

How to drape on PGM Dress Form

1. Prep your dress form.

Make sure the measurements are accurate. If you haven’t already, mark the center line of the dress form with tape. This will help you keep your draping even across the body. If you already have an idea of the lines of your garment, such as the shape of the neckline, you can add those with tape, as well. This helps keep your draping on track.

2. Work from a sketch or photograph.

You should have a design idea in mind when you get to the dress form. A sketch or reference photograph will give you an idea of how you need to manipulate the fabric. Of course, you can also just play with the fabric and use its behavior as the basis of your design, but less experienced designers will be less frustrated when they have something to work off of.

3. Start with muslin.

You might want to start with fitting muslin to avoid wasting good fabric, but keep in mind that different types and weights of fabric behave very differently when draped, so choose a muslin weight that is close to the weight of your fabric.

4. Create your foundation piece and pin it to your dress form.

Most fabrics will require a foundation piece of some sort to support the weight of the fabric. You can skip this step if you’re working with a very sturdy fabric. If your main fabric is sheer, be sure to choose a fabric that’s close to your skin tone or one that matches the main fabric if you don’t want to see the foundation fabric when the garment is worn.

The foundation piece should be fitted to the dress form. (If you’ve constructed a bodice sloper based on your measurements, that’s an excellent place to start!) If you have a basic idea of the design details you want to include (such as a sweetheart neckline or off-the-shoulder sleeves), be sure the foundation piece reflects that, since it will make Step 5 much easier.

5. Start pinning!

Make sure you have enough fabric to cover the area. You can always cut the extra off later. Draping is usually done in sections: front bodice, back bodice, front skirt, back skirt. Choose a spot where the folds are most prevalent and begin there. Your sketch or photograph will come in handy at this point.

Trial and error coupled with patience is the name of the game. If you find yourself getting frustrated, take a step back and walk away for a bit. Use chalk to mark any additional seam lines or darts.

6. Baste the fabric to the foundation piece.

Once you’re satisfied with the draping, use a contrasting color thread to baste the fabric to the foundation piece (or to itself if you’re not using a foundation piece). Go slowly so you won’t miss any folds in the process. This will allow you to remove the pins without undoing all of your hard work.

7. Trim off any excess fabric and continue constructing your garment.

The raw edges of your draping should be hidden in the seams. At this point, you can remove your basting stitches.

PGM Dress Form - How to measure female body

For skirts we generally only need the waist size (G), hip measurement (I), and the distance vertically between waist and hip (E to F).
For jackets we need the following measurements: Bust (H), waist size (G), back width (P to Q), nape to waist (A to B), chest (N to O), shoulder (K to L), top arm (W), armhole depth (A to X), front shoulder to waist (Y to C), sleeve length (L to M)

H - bust. Measure round the body at the fullest part of the bust, making sure that the tape measure is parallel to the floor.

G - waist size. After taking this measurement, tie a piece of string firmly round the waist. This allows vertical measurements to be taken more accurately.

I - hips. Measure the widest part. This is generally between 15cm and 21cm down from the waistline.

P to Q - back width. Measure 15cm down from the neck bone at the centre back and then across the back from where one arm meets the body to where the other arm meets the body.

N to O - chest. Measure the chest 7cm down from the neck point at the centre front (armhole to armhole).

J - neck. Measure the base of the neck touching the front collar bone.

K to L - shoulder. Measure from the neck to the shoulder bone.

W - top arm. With the arm bent, measure the bicep.

V - wrist. Make this measurement quite loose and comfortable.

A to B - nape to waist. Measure from the neck bone at the centre back to the string tied around the waist.

Y to C - front shoulder to waist. Measure from the centre of the front shoulder, over the bust point (nipple), to the waist.

A to X - armhole depth. This is generally a standard measurement, but if the arm or shoulder is well developed, this measurement is well worth having. Place a tape measure or piece of string across the back under the arms and measure down from the neck bone to the centre of the tape.

E to F - waist to hip. This is also generally a standard measurement, but, again, it's worth having. Measure from the string tied around the waist down to the fullest part of the hips.

Draping Dress Sketch Art

C to D - waist to desired length of garment (applicable for certain skirt designs and for CP1 coats).

T to U - inside leg.

R to S - waist to floor. Measure from the waist to the floor at the centre back.

1 to 2 - body rise. Sit on a hard chair and have someone else take the measurement at the side from your waist to the chair.

L to M - sleeve length. Place the hand on the hip so the arm is bent. Measure from the shoulder bone, over the elnbow and down to the wristbone to where you want the sleeve to end.
By Jed Phoenix

PGM Dress Form - How to measure male body

For the Self Tailoring strap, the Self Tailoring laced and the Twist of English Empire trousers, we generally only need the following measurements as a guide: Trouser waist (H), seat (I), body rise (R to S) and inside leg (T to U).
For jackets, coats and waistcoats, the following are required: Chest (F), front chest (between the two red dots just above the chest line. The front chest is a horizontal line 18cm down from K, and from where the left arm meets the body to where the right arm meets the body), natural waist length (A to B), half back (D to E), natural waist (G), neck (J), shoulder (K to L), sleeve length (L to M), wrist (V), top arm (W), scye depth (A to X).
Any questions, please feel free to contact us or come and visit us at one of the many events we attend around the country to be measured by Jed in person.
G - natural waist. Tie a piece of string around the natural waistline. This makes vertical measurements more accurate.

A to B - natural waist length. Measure from the bone at the nape of the neck to the waistline.

A to C - desired length of garment. This measurement is generally applicable to CP1 coats.

D to E - half across back. Measure from centre back (15cm down from nape) to the position of the sleeve seam at the back scye (armhole).

F - chest. Place the tape under the arms and around the body at chest level. Make sure the arms are down and the tape measure passes over the shoulder blades when taking this measurement.

H - trouser waist position. This is generally 4cm down from the natural waistline.

I - seat. Measure around the fullest part of the seat, usually 21cm down from the waistline.

J - neck. Measure round the base of the neck quite loosely.

K to L - shoulder. Measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder bone.

L to M - sleeve length for one piece sleeve. With the hand on the hip, so the arm is bent, measure from the shoulder bone to where you want the sleeve to end.

P to Q - side seam length for trousers. Measure from the waist to the heel seam of shoe.

R to S - body rise. Whilst sitting on a hard chair, have someone measure from the waist to the top of the seat of the chair.

T to U - inside leg. Measure from high in the crutch to the heel seam of shoe.

Fashion Draping

V - wrist.

W - top arm. Measure whilst the arm is bent.

A to X - scye depth. This is generally a standard measurement, but if the arm or shoulder is well developed, this measurement is well worth having. Place a tape measure or piece of string across the back under the arms and measure down from the neck bone to the centre of the tape.
By Jed Phoenix

How to measure dogs' body

1. Length (Base of Neck to Base of Tail)
2. Girth (Widest Part of chest)
3. Neck (Around the base of the neck)
4. Waist

5. Leg Length of Jumper/PJ's required - Short (4'), long (14') or none
(*If a specific leg length is required please see next diagram for measure guide)
6. Style of neck (Polo or Crew)

Drapery

Draping of the Sleeve (Plate 35).

An arm outline is shown in Fig. 1, and its shape should be particularly noticed.

In Fig. 2, the arrangement of a close-fitting sleeve has been shown, and also a loose-cuffed variety, indicated by the dotted lines.

By comparing letters it will be seen that the drapery lines fall into the muscles of the arm, and that even in their loose variety they are indicated in their folds, K and L ; see also Plate 36.

Much will depend on the weight of the material whether the muscles show to a less or a greater degree. The finer the material the more it will cling and show the form ; if thick and heavy, the shape of the arm will be somewhat obscured at certain points, especially in the folds, which will sometimes strike each other out of position by their own weight. Although these interruptions may occur at intervals the outline of the muscles will show in the open spaces.

When the arm is bent in the middle, folds will radiate around the bend just as they would in the flesh, though to a far greater extent, as shown in Fig. 3.

Draping Dress Sketch Pattern

Draping Dress Sketch Drawings

The folds in the heavier materials will have a more rounded appearance and greater bulk.

Care must be taken not to exaggerate these shapes. A gentle suggestion is all that is required in fashion drawing, as exaggeration would be quite out of place in such work, and take away the ' new ' look from the garment.

The letters shown in the diagram place positions for the following muscles

A : Deltoid. B: Biceps. C: Triceps. D : Supinator mass. E: Flexor group. F : Radius bone line. G : Ulna bone line. H : Wrist bone of ulna.